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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. But, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary triumph.